Before you make your first cut, you’ll inspect the tree’s lean, decay, and surrounding obstacles—you can’t afford to miss what’s hiding in the trunk or overhead. You’ll mark your felling zone and two escape routes at 45 degrees, then suit up in proper PPE. But your notch choice determines whether you maintain control or lose it entirely, and the difference between a conventional and open-face cut isn’t something you’ll want to guess at when the saw’s already running.
Assess the Tree and Know When to Partner With Another Arborist
Before you’ve made your first cut, you’ll assess the tree’s size, lean, and branch structure to determine whether you can safely fell it alone or need another arborist on-site. You’ll examine the trunk for decay, cracks, or cavities that compromise felling direction and may require rigging expertise beyond solo capability.
You’ll evaluate root zone stability, soil moisture, and wind conditions—dynamic forces that demand a partner’s control during the fall. Multi-stemmed specimens, significant basal decay, or proximity to structures and utilities mandate two-person operations for safety.
You’ll coordinate pre-briefing with your partner on cut plans, role assignments, and contingency protocols. Clear communication prevents catastrophic misalignment. Recognize your operational limits: when risk escalates, you’ll deploy additional personnel rather than compromise felling integrity.
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Mark Your Felling Zone and Plan Your Escape Route
Once you’ve determined whether you’re working solo or with a partner, you’ll shift focus to controlling the physical space around the tree. Mark your felling zone with visible boundaries—tape, cones, or verbal commands—to establish where you’ll work and where bystanders must remain. This buffer prevents incursion into the danger area.
You’ll plan an escape route that angles 45 degrees away from the falling tree’s retreat path, selecting a direction with stable footing and zero obstacles. Identify two exits minimum; your primary path may block if the tree splits or redirects. Clear both routes of trip hazards, debris, and overhanging limbs, then verify they stay open throughout the operation.
Rehearse your escape route before cutting. Walk it briskly. Confirm you’ve got unobstructed distance to retreat. Never start the saw until you’ve mentally mapped and physically tested your exit.
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Wear Essential Safety Gear for Every Felling Job
What separates a controlled felling operation from a catastrophic injury? Your safety gear. You start with a hard hat—chin strap fastened—to deflect falling branches and overhead debris. You wear ANSI Z87.1+ eye protection and 90 dB OSHA-rated hearing protection; chainsaw noise damages hearing permanently without it. You pull on cut-resistant gloves and sturdy, high-traction boots; compromised grip or footing invites blade contact or falls. You don a high-visibility, snug long-sleeve shirt and pants, adding chaps or forestry-rated leg protection to block debris and chainsaw teeth. At the work zone, you establish full PPE protocol; if kickback risk spikes or wood density varies, you add a face shield. You don’t negotiate this layer. You wear it completely, every time.
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Choose Your Felling Cut: Conventional or Open-Face
How do you control which way a tree falls? You select between two felling methods. With the conventional cut, you’ll place the notch on the fall side and leave the hinge opposite; you’ll complete a backcut before tipping occurs.
The open-face cut features a larger notch from the underside, creating a longer hinge on the stump to guide descent and reduce bar-pinching risk.
You must evaluate tree lean, wind, and trunk diameter before choosing. The notch shape varies significantly between methods—conventional forms a tighter angle while open-face spreads wider. Video guides let you compare each notch shape, backcut angle, and hinge width in real-time.
In high-risk or uncertain conditions, you’re obligated to call a professional rather than attempt either cut alone.
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Make a Conventional Felling Cut With Plastic Wedges
After choosing the conventional method over the open-face alternative, you’ll form the notch by making a top cut from above and a bottom cut level with it, establishing continuous wood fibers that function as a hinge for controlled descent.
Wearing your PPE—helmet, eye and hearing protection, gloves, and chainsaw chaps—you’ll complete the back cut slightly above the notch. Insert plastic wedges into the kerf immediately to prevent premature closure, protect your chainsaw chain from dulling, and guide the tree’s trajectory. Maintain a 6–12 inch hinge on the leaning side to control fall direction and eliminate bar pinching or kickback hazards. Monitor movement continuously; don’t retreat until you’ve confirmed the tree’s committing to fall. Keep your escape path clear throughout execution.
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Make an Open-Face Felling Cut for Greater Control
Why settle for the conventional method when you need maximum precision? The open-face cut delivers superior control when you’re managing complex felling scenarios.
You’ll create a larger, unobstructed hinge by starting the top cut on the trunk’s opposite side from the desired lean. This entry notch actively guides the tree’s fall direction with greater reliability than standard configurations. Execute the open-face cut using a bore-cut approach: position your chain saw at a shallow angle to form the notch, then complete it from the opposite side while continuously monitoring hinge integrity. Pre-plan your escape path and maintain a clear work zone throughout the process. Wear appropriate protective equipment. If the tree’s large, leaning, or in a restricted area, you’re relying on a professional to reduce your risk during this demanding procedure.
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Execute the Back Cut and Guide the Fall to the Ground
Where exactly should you position yourself to maintain control during the final, decisive phase of felling? Stand to the side of the planned fall direction, never directly behind the tree, during the back cut.
Execute the back cut from a position slightly above the stump, ensuring the relief cut angle allows the tree to pivot toward the planned direction. Stop short of the hinge wood, leaving an intact section 1/10 to 1/6 the tree’s diameter in depth. Saw with a controlled, steady rhythm; don’t twist the bar. When the tree begins moving, finish with a quick, clean completion.
Before cutting, establish a clear exit path at 45 degrees from the fall line. Alert others. Verify the swing radius contains no obstacles. Maintain a firm stance, wear PPE, and keep the chainsaw in a safe posture to prevent kickback or binding. Retreat immediately along your escape route once the tree commits to falling.
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Ideal for chainsaw working, logging, forest working, metalworking, power tools operating, DIY, and multi-purpose works.
Conclusion
You’ve assessed the tree, marked your zone, and geared up properly. You’ve selected your cut and executed it with precision. Now you’re retreating along your escape route, maintaining visual contact until the fall commits. Every step you’ve taken prioritizes control and safety. Remember: never compromise on PPE, never skip the escape plan, and never turn your back early. Felling demands respect, preparation, and disciplined execution—master these, and you’ll work confidently.
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